Woodworking Tips: Table Saw – Check Parallelism

by Robert
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Woodworking Tips: Table Saw – If you don’t check to see that the blade and fence on your table saw are parallel, you could end up with binding issues that cause kickback and a whole bunch of other problems on your woodworking projects down the road, so make sure you check for parallelism! George Vondriska teaches you a quick and low-tech method for doing so using a framing square and a standard metal ruler.
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  • Black Dog
    March 8, 2016

    First you need to check blade run out which you did not do.

  • Michael Addley
    March 8, 2016
  • Cocula aispuro
    March 8, 2016

    Nunca vi como la alineaste jajajaja

  • WV591
    March 8, 2016

    Anything short of measuring the difference front to back of blade with dial gauge and then doing 5 side test cut is waste of time.

  • Tanker Man
    March 8, 2016

    have a craftsman table saw with the little flanges in the miter track. Will be making a miter sled being aligned with the outside of the saw. Would you check blade alignment the same way?

  • jim sanker
    March 8, 2016

    ya your 100% right, but how do we go about making any adjustments?  I have no idea.

  • David Handley
    March 8, 2016

    Another great tip! I just bought a cheap (new) table saw and is trying to work out if everything was square and true. Hey, job done! Thanks again. Keep'm coming.

  • n8guy
    March 8, 2016

    Kind of. For the metal ruler to be flat against the square, yes, but even if it's not, the same rules would apply: the ruler binds, creates a gap, or slides against the square.

    The bigger issue here is that he didn't discuss runout and how to check for that using this same setup (which I believe you can do by rotating the blade in something like 1/4 turn increments and doing the same check).

  • Mark Price
    March 8, 2016

    I own a Ridgid portable table saw…the best portable saw that they produce (it's not anything compared to a cabinet saw). Here's my question…when I cut hardwood, due to the motor being a 1HP (I think), I like to use 7 1/4" circular saw blades instead. The riving knife that comes with the saw is as thick as a normal 10" blade (a little less than 1/8"). So, I cannot use thinner blades with the factory riving knife. How does you guys get around this? Remove the knife (very dangerous)? Anyone….

  • ncastrinos
    March 8, 2016

    This assumes that your miter gauge is set perfectly square as well.

  • batarang87
    March 8, 2016

    I've owned the Grizzly G0661 2HP 220v Contractor's Saw for almost a year now. When I first set it up I used a Dial Indicator to check the Parallelisms. Blade to Miter Slot at 90 is right between 0 and 1/1000ths of an inch and at 45 about 2 or 3/1000ths. The Fence is at dead zero. I really had to mess with the adjustments to get to that point, are these good numbers and do you think it's close enough?

  • Norbury53
    March 8, 2016

    LOL – there ARE no instructions on how to square the blade in my table saw's manual – when I rang up their local support number the guy said "we don't know, if you find out can you let us know?" It turns out that the only way to do it is to use shims. I didn't bother to contact them again.

  • Jean-Marc Selvon
    March 8, 2016

    thanks a lot for those useful advice.
    Jean-Marc from Belgium